This year has witnessed a remarkable surge in the popularity of Greek tavernas, marking a significant trend in the restaurant scene. As the summer heat caused pavements to crack and parks to dry out, a longing for the warmth of Hellenic culture seems particularly fitting. The release of ‘The Odyssey’ this July, with its dark and damp themes, further accentuated this yearning for a Mediterranean escape.
The Essence of the Taverna Experience
A taverna embodies a lively, somewhat chaotic atmosphere, characterised by shared tables and a focus on grilled meats and salads infused with oregano. During a visit to Athens this summer, I indulged in hearty bowls of brothy chickpeas at Diporto, followed by sumptuous beef liver and lamb pilaf at Manari Tavern. In London, while Greek cuisine may not be revolutionary, a new wave of restaurants is gaining traction, offering a dippier experience with a broader array of bread varieties. The portions are slightly smaller, and the interior designs evoke a blend of tradition and modernity, all with a distinct London twist. From tasting menus to beloved family dishes, the city is embracing a Greek-inspired culinary scene.
Oma & Agora: A New Greek Wave
Located in Borough, Oma and Agora are two distinct dining experiences within the same establishment, founded by David Carter, known for his recent venture Kid. Oma, which boasts a Michelin star, draws inspiration from the Greek isles, while Agora captures the essence of Athens’ bustling streets and markets. The focus here is on flatbreads, tantalising dips, and skewers cooked over open flames, providing a vibrant introduction to Greek flavours.
Maza: A Mayfair Gem
Maza, situated in the upscale Mayfair district, embodies a lively and sophisticated atmosphere. The restaurant features closely arranged tables that buzz with energy, reminiscent of a traditional taverna. Renowned for its exquisite taramasalata, owner Christina Mouratoglou envisioned a space filled with “fun, warm, organised chaos” when she opened the restaurant earlier this spring. Maza successfully aligns with the growing mainstream appeal of Greek cuisine. On the other side of London, Lagana, which debuted last year, offers a more eclectic vibe akin to a Shoreditch version of Maza, ensuring both venues promise an enjoyable evening out.
Zylia: A Controversial Debut
Zylia emerged as one of the most talked-about restaurant openings of the year, stirring debate about its identity as either Greek, Cypriot, or a blend of culinary influences. Helmed by Nick Molyviatis, an ex-head chef from Kiln with roots in Athens, and Barry Karacostas from Cyprus, Zylia delivers a flavour-packed experience. A standout dish is the milk-fed lamb shoulder, showcasing the restaurant’s commitment to bold flavours.
Pyro: Contemporary Greek Dining
Another Borough-based establishment, Pyro, brings an upscale beach shack vibe to the dining scene, featuring a tasting menu curated by Chef Yiannis Mexis, who has honed his skills at Hide and The Ledbury. Mexis presents a modern interpretation of traditional Greek cuisine, with highlights including a Parmesan-dusted spanakopita nata tart and Iberico pork souvlaki. A unique addition is their tzatziki cocktail, which intriguingly captures the essence of its namesake dish.
Andy’s Greek Taverna: A Camden Classic
At the other end of the spectrum lies Andy’s Greek Taverna, a Camden institution known for its generous portions of moussaka and stuffed peppers. While it may not claim the title of the best Greek restaurant in London, Andy’s offers a comforting experience steeped in nostalgia, having served souvlaki and gyros since the 1960s. Additionally, it boasts one of the most entertaining restaurant websites, making it a delightful stop for both food and a bit of fun.

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